Three Kings Day - Vera, Spain

Saturday. January 5, 2008

Twelve days after Christmas in Spain, Three Kings Day is celebrated, which is January 6th. (This coincides with the end of the twelve days of Christmas.) The celebration is more popular than Christmas, and was observed long before Dec 25th celebrations began in this country.

The day before on January 5th, there is a great party where everybody gives and receives presents. Children go with their families to a parade where they see the Three Wise Men – Melchior, Caspar and Balthazar - arrive to their city. (In some areas along the coast they arrive by boat.)

Every town, village and city seems to celebrate with pageantry, parades, and festivities. In Vera the parade was smaller than those shown on TV in other centres, but it was well-attended and you could feel the excitement of the children. There was a float for each ‘king’—being chosen is an honour and there is one fair skinned man, a dark-skinned man, and one in-between to represent kings from various countries.

In between, there are other people dressed up and maybe another float or two. The floats themselves aren’t anything in particular and it seems the towns switch them around each year so that they are different.

Here as the parade progresses, candy is thrown all along the way and everyone scrambles to pick some up. Usually it is hard candy, but there have been complaints in recent years and this year they were throwing ‘jelly babies’ (jellied candies wrapped in cellophane).

I was hit a few times in the head with them, and they were hard enough so I can understand why people complained about the other ones….and yes, I was right in there with everyone else grabbing whatever ones I could find. The red ones were my favourite. Some kids had bags full!

The parade winds through the town centre and eventually makes its way to the town square outside the church. There gifts are distributed to each and every child below the age of 13 by The Three Kings. We didn’t stay for this distribution as it takes hours.

Each child’s name is called out and they go up and get their special gift which they have written a letter and asked for. (The parent’s have actually purchased the gifts and spirited them to the appointed area.)

This traditionally is the only gift the children get for Christmas at least here, although it varies all over the country. Some might have received gifts during the Christmas celebrations, but the kids are not as spoiled here as their counterparts in the UK and North America in general, although I'm sure they quite possibly are in the larger cities where there is much more availability to 'outside' influences.

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Earlier in the day, the usual Saturday market took place until 2 p.m. and then everything closed, again like usual. I've discovered that when the people here are finished at 2, they have their large meal of the day, and then actually have a siesta...they get their jammies on and everything.

At any rate, the day was warm and there were loads of merchants and people out. I spent a long time wandering around. I bought some fresh green beans and new potatoes, and one of the delicious barbecued chickens and had a fine feast that reminded me of summer on my grandparent's farm.

I also bought some fresh almonds and other nuts from a stall that sold so many things, I didn't even know what some of them were.

There were several stalls that sold olives...more kinds than I've seen in my life...large. plum, juicy ones, done in a variety of ways. Too bad I wasn't an olive fan, I'd have been in heaven!

I also spent some time watching an artist 'paint' with a scalpel like instrument, and using either acrylics or oils. She was quite proficient at it and her work was lovely, but no, I didn't purchase anything.

Mount Bayra Medieval Ruins Excursion

Friday, January 4, 2008

My new walking exercise program led me today to a pilgrimage up Mount Bayra (otherwise referred to as the “Jesus Mountain” by the local English speaking people, because of the statue of Jesus on the top and because the area is called “The Hill of the Spirit Santo.”)

Although my Spanish isn’t very good, from what I could make out from the literature about the place, there was once a village built into the hills at least as early 800 A.D. though I might be wrong about the dates. (For more details, some basic historical information I gleaned came from this URL site: http://www.askolive.com/areaguide/132/Almeria/Vera/)

There is also some controversy as to whether it existed before or after or in between the times when Vera came into existence. One source says that Barya is now the village of Vera and it was relocated in the 13th century to the ground it stands on today. This last fact seems to be true, although the date might not be accurate.

Whatever the case, a massive earthquake in 1518 finished off the once thriving village. An artist’s rendering of it shows what it must have been like before its destruction, and other paintings show various aspects of Roman, Christian and Moorish (Arabs) occupation.

A photo taken in1888 shows there wasn’t much left of it.

On the way up the hill, and before one comes to the gates (often locked) that lead to

the church and the statue,

there is an area where there are some ruins, including what once

must have been a fairly large house built into the side of the hill. Of course, I wandered all around and took shots from as many sides as I could easily get.

As I travelled up, I passed through the gates, and began the 'spiritual' journey done by thousands of others, including those during special festivals.

Although there once was only a path that zig-zagged up the mountain, there is now a stone path, which at times are steps to climb. I didn't count how many, but it was a nice walk and the view well worth it.

There were some flowers blooming, though it is the winter months.

I first came upon the remains of a small church which has been turned into a museum, which houses some lovely artifacts (so I'm told...it was locked so I couldn't see inside).

I also saw the remnants of their water system and a few walls were still visible.

There were also little benches along the way to stop and enjoy the peacefulness.

I became fascinated with the large Prickly Pear cactus and how it stood out in the sky and on the hills.

Apparently the Prickly Pear Cactus produces a fruit that is edible and is sold in the stores under the name "tuna".

The branches of the Prickly Pear Cactus can be cooked and can be eaten as a vegetable and is sold under the name "Nopalito". The juice and pulp of the fruit of the Prickly Pear Cactus makes some delicious Prickly Pear Nectar juice.

I had a fabulous view of the surroundings, which are typical geography of Spain….mountains and valleys and around here, eventually to the Mediterranean Sea.

Barley, citrus fruits, almonds, and lettuce are grown in many farms and fields, and there was an orange orchard below mountain where I stood.

To the northeast of Mount Bayra (right beside it in fact), live the ‘gypsies,’ known also as the original Spanish people. I think they would be of Moorish (Arabic) descent. They are basically still a hunting and gathering group, some of whom still live in caves in the hills. I spied a few places, but I suspect most entrances are well hidden. Some live in dilapidated homes, eking out a living through gardening too. They live a very simple life and are a friendly group.

One shot I got was of the town of Vera and the place where I'm staying. It looks quite small from the outside, whether looking at it from the front or the back. One would never guess it was so spacious inside.

There is a big bushy tree almost in the middle of the photo. To the very right of it (and a little behind is where I live for now.) The tree partly obscures my view of the mountain from the balcony. (See the first photo on this page and you will see the same tree on the right hand side of the frame.)

I attempted to take some photos of myself to prove I'd made it to the top of the mountain…

sometimes the shot went right over my head....

and right over the head of the statue, apparently...

I settled for just taking one of the statue in the end....

Impressions of Vera, Spain

New Year's Eve and New Year's Day, Tuesday & Wednesday

I'm not sure why I've always wanted to come to Spain or what I find so appealing, because I'm sure there are other places that have as much to offer. Part of it might be that the people, at least here in this authentic village of Vera, still live by their old values and passions and there is so much culture here, rather than being a homogenized group of people mashed together in the country. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vera,_Spain

They have more ‘definition’ and boundaries in their lifestyles and it’s quiet and peaceful here. Everyone is patient and relaxed, so that one has to leave to experience the craziness again, but while one stays the peacefulness takes over. I’m getting into a calmer rhythm here that I quite enjoy. The people here have respect for life and nature, and the village is filled with parks and waterfalls, and flowers, and everyone seems so positive and happy.

If I could find some work here, I would stay. I love it and the opportunities are wonderful, and the costs of things are great in terms of living here. My landlords say that a six bedroom house is only $270 (Canadian dollars) per year for property taxes. And they can attend all kinds of theatre, concerts, movies, lessons (Spanish, Tai Chi, Yoga, dancing, needlework, etc.) for free through their annual property tax dollars. The performances often are those with famous people and groups too. The place is alive with festivals, and culture....it's so amazing. Eating out is a little less expensive than home, and groceries are definitely cheaper with fresh produce brought to the marketplace every Saturday. Not to mention all the fresh fish and seafood, often caught the same day.

The streets are clean. Everyone – people and shopkeepers – are responsible for keeping the areas in front of their places clean. I feel safe walking the streets here, though I still wouldn't venture far on my own at night...mostly because I might get lost in the maze of narrow streets.


Almost everything I might need is easily within walking distance. In fact, I literally have to only take twelve steps out the front door to arrive at a tapas bar to eat. (Photo on right: The tapas bar is on the left and the front door to my place is the small one between the two trees.)

The weather is moderate all year round, which is another bonus to me for where to live. The community is very family orientated, with New Year’s Eve being the biggest celebration to be with family and absolutely everything shuts down (in the authentic villages….not the places that cater to tourists). They have many festivals going on throughout the year. I’d like to see the festival of flowers and the week long Easter celebrations. The people are very religious as well, though I am not, though spirituality plays a great role in my life.

The strong morals and religiousness of the place might seem a little incongruous given that the biggest nudist beach in Europe is here in Vera, though I’ve not yet gone down there to check it out. Apparently yesterday, when it was quite warm, the place was busy. http://www.its-natural.net/naturist-holidays-vera-playa-spain.htm (NB: The old men in this village do not like it when the young men go around without shirts on and they will say something....obviously the residents of the village are not the people who are likely to attend the nudist beaches!)

I could stay here for a very long time, and may stay until I leave for China at the end of February. I can always come back once I get a little teaching experience under my belt. I want to investigate the 'grandfathering' of a UK passport too, which will automatically give me an EU passport, and hence the opportunity to work in Europe and especially in Spain. This might take a while to do. Some other friends of mine are doing it, so I'll see how they make out and then but I'll set things in motion for myself. The biggest drawback is that it’s hard to find places to rent in the village proper, which is where I’d want to live.

I'd gone out for a long walk around the town earlier in the day and I'm getting more familiar with it all the time. I found the autobus estacion (bus station) to take me to Barcelona, but then today I’ve found an inexpensive flight from Vera to there that is only a few Euros more than the bus ride (which would take 11 hours+). I’m not sure when I'm going to go there, probably in about ten to fourteen days or so...just looking for a cheap place to stay while I’m there, which might not be possible.

Barcelona is back to big city life and more expensive, but I do want to see all the galleries and museums, before I leave the county. I'm trying to finish my next children's novel before I leave Vera, so I've no set deadline for moving on yet, but expect to spend most of January in Spain.
http://www.virtourist.com/europe/barcelona/index.html

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New Year’s Eve I had a quiet evening last night by choice. I didn't fancy going to the one and only pub that opened especially for the other 'boarders' and B&B operators in the town. I didn't want to sit in a smoky bar to bring in the New Year....just not part of my new 'healthy' lifestyle that I've set for myself for 2008. But I did have a glass of champagne with my housemates, before they went out.

There is always laughter when we are all introduced as there is Jill, Phil, Gil, Hill (short for Hillary), and then Dave Jill(y)'s huband, Fiona (Phil's wife, who's from Rhodesia), and myself. [By the way, Jilly has a grown daughter in England named Judy, so I sometimes get called Judy too].

I enjoyed staying back and watching fireworks from the terrace of the B&B. I watched a rerun of the movie “Life of Brian” and listened to a little Julios Iglesias....his music filled the air at the marketplace on Sat and I couldn't resist buying a CD of his. It was so magical and so fitting.

At midnight I could see the sparkles from about six towns around the mountainous area and it was quite lovely.

I'm enjoying the sun and the warmth today, though I've mostly been inside writing and putzing on the computer, preparing more for my blog. My son had his hip operation yesterday and it went well, though I don't know the details or what that means. I got the info second hand through my parents, who had no other details either. My son is supposed to phone tomorrow, or as soon as he gets back home. I'm relieved that all is well for now.

Not much is open here today – New Year’s Day, but I will be able to go to a little tappas bar for something to eat for supper. I’ve found the food delicious here and I’m learning about the quirks compared to home. Number one is that you definitely won't find any fastfood places here.

You won’t be served butter here either for on your bread or anything else. Everywhere you go you’re served olive oil, which you pour onto the bread slice with a deft flick of the wrist. They do serve ensaladas (salads), but the only dressings I’ve found are either mayonnaise or olive oil and white vinegar. They do have what they call salsas (but they are more like sauces – which could include what we call salsa – the tomato kind – or a mustard sauce, or they use other ingredients that I’m not familiar with yet.) The Spanish use a tremendous amount of garlic in everything and wine is incredibly inexpensive and plentiful everywhere you go.

Tea is not popular and even if you can find a place that might sell it, the quality is awful, so English drinking tea drinkers get theirs sent from home. They use mayo on their French fries, rather than ketchup, and you have to make your own hot chocolate from packages when you order it from a café, but it’s quite good. The food is wonderful here, and I've managed to find some good recipe sites that reflect what I'm tasting:

http://www.xmission.com/~dderhak/recipe/churros.htm

http://www.tienda.com/ and http://www.tienda.com/recipes/recipes.html

Paella (the dish on the left) I have yet to try. But I love the hot chorizo sausages (below). (The photos are taken from the above web site.) At the hotel, which I mentioned that is famous for where all the matadors stay, there are also world renowned chefs, whose recipes have been gathered into published cookbooks. I have not tried the 'silver service' at the hotel, and probably won't as it's very expensive, but I can imagine how fabulous the food must be.


Everyone speaks Spanish here, although the odd person might know a little English. Sometimes it’s a challenge to get around, but I just keep asking, pointing and miming. I plan on taking lessons while I’m here, and I’ve bought myself a phrase book. It’s fun to practice the language. Sometimes there are some very funning things that happen, but yesterday I managed to find a hairdresser and have my hair trimmed and shampooed and dried. You don’t make appointments….you just walk in, though you might have to wait for a while until it’s your turn.

The people are very patient here.

And I am learning paciencia as well.